Boghossian: Queens of Time celebrates history’s most powerful women

Across royal courts and ancient kingdoms, jewellery did far more than catch the eye. It could project authority, communicate identity and shape how a ruler was remembered. Boghossian revisits that idea in Queens of Time, a new high jewellery collection that brings the stories of 11 remarkable women into the present

Unveiled on July 20, the Queens of Time collection was more than two years in the making, bringing together 39 jewels across 14 sets. Led by CEO Albert Boghossian and Creative Director Edmond Chin, it follows 2024’s architecture-inspired Palace Voyages with something more intimate: a series of portraits expressed through gemstones, colour and craftsmanship rather than literal recreations of royal jewels.

The journey begins with three queens whose stories unfold through dramatically different palettes. Mãyãdevi’s spiritual legacy appears in lapis lazuli, Paraiba tourmalines, white diamond lotus flowers and flashes of spessartite garnet. Atossa Shahbanu’s bracelet, ring and earrings take a richer, more geometric direction, mixing aquamarine, imperial morganite, pink tourmaline, carnelian, lapis and diamonds. Elizabeth I’s famously elaborate image inspires two pearl-led suites: a conch-pearl sautoir accented with antique coral, rubies and spinels, and another composition filled with carved agate Tudor roses, tsavorites, orangey diamonds and 87 abalone pearls.

Four further chapters show just how widely the collection moves across eras and cultures. Cleopatra VII inspires a theatrical golden yellow mother-of-pearl necklace and ring, illuminated by a light yellow lozenge-shaped diamond and 18 yellow Asscher-cut diamonds, with twisted strands forming a protective Hercules Knot. Seondeok of Silla’s tree-shaped crown is transformed into jadeite double cuffs and articulated earrings set with fancy vivid yellow diamonds.

Meanwhile, Eleanor of Aquitaine’s medieval world comes to life through flexible panels set with orange sapphires, keshi pearls and very light yellow diamonds. Catherine the Great’s icy “white on white” creation, by contrast, pairs moonstones with sharply cut kite-shaped diamonds using Boghossian’s Art of Inlay.

Elsewhere, Theodora of Byzantium’s gold necklace combines sapphires, emeralds, spinels, rough diamonds and natural saltwater pearls with mismatched chandelier earrings. Indradevi receives two colour-rich interpretations: one in mint tourmalines, chrysoprase and aquamarines, and another layering Paraibas, tanzanites, hauyne, lapis and turquoise in shades reminiscent of Cambodia after monsoon rain.

Mughal and Napoleonic influences come together in two contrasting portraits. Mumtaz Mahal’s jewels pair white jade, jasper and Jaipur-carved Zambian emeralds with protective tawiz-shaped diamonds, while a second suite centres on a sculptural mother-of-pearl bangle edged in pink spinels and tsavorites. Joséphine’s carved-morganite ensemble closes the collection on a softer note, with sunset tourmalines and imperial topaz arranged in romantic, blush-toned architectural forms.

Drawing on Boghossian’s 150-year heritage, Silk Route roots and Swiss craftsmanship, Queens of Time turns royal history into a vivid celebration of individuality, courage and enduring power.

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